Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Second Acropolis Strike Out (11.13.07)

Syntagma Square Metro stationKouros
Amanda & Ian making friends
Greeks..."uncut"
Statue
Little old ladies and pigeons outside of museum
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Greek Orthodox clergy
Site of first modern Olympics
Rain at the Acropolis
Greek Orthodox paraphrenalia
Folk dancing at Nurigas



Though after much intercontinental travel I think I would have been happy going shopping and then to a movie today in Athens, Amanda the former anthropologist was bound and determined to go see the Acropolis and the Archeological Museum. After breakfast at the hotel, we hopped on the Athens Metro to start our day at the Museum.
*
Once there we discovered that neither of us were that interested in reading the explanatory placards posted everywhere and that a live museum guide would run us 50 Euros / hour (~75 USD). Of course I thought about the kick-ass 2 hour guided tour we got through the Egyptian Museum for $25 total and was really missing Cairo again. We basically wandered from room to room, stopping to let each door monitor coo and babble at Ian in Greek. There were a few groups of Greek schoolchildren there as well, and I noticed that even the Greek kids love babies. Whenever we walked past they stopped whatever they were doing in order to turn and smile.
*
The first area we visited I think were finds from Mycenean tombs and included a lot of pottery, jewelry, and very-gilded diadem. There were some 2500 year old safety pins which I though were very cool, and of course some painted wall fresco-type things. Our real interest was in the sculputre. The earliest works we saw were Koura, youthful figures meant to either guard or represent gods. What was fascinating about these larger than life figures was how obviously they had been influenced by the Greeks' travels to Pharonic Egypt. Not only were some of the figures massive size a first for Greek artists, but they also had large triangular hair-dos reminiscent of the pharonic headdresses and they all stood erect with the left foot slightly forward (see Cairo Museum entry). As we moved forward through time new saw the sculptures become more complex and refined and we commented on the artists' ability to capture facial expressions (and the fact that through the sculptures we now know that the ancient greeks did not practice circumcisions ;-))
*
We stayed about an hour and a half and then decided to try and find a bus back to Syntagma Square. Neither of us can read Greek (they really do use a different alphabet) so we took a guess and hopped on the number 8 bus that looked promising and ended up near enough to our destination. I think the greek system is a little strange in that you are supposed to buy your ticket before getting on the bus. Near the back door there is a ticket validation machine, so that you have zero interaction iwth the driver and are just on an honor system as to whether or not you have or validate your ticket. We did neither, and saved a few Euros in the process ;-).
*
After getting off the bus we passed by the Parliament building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We stopped for photos of the guards in their wool stockings, long white tunic/miniskirts, and curly-toed, pompom-adorned Greek slippers. Though it was pushing 2:30 and we hadn't had lunch, we pressed on to try and get to the Acropolis. We check internet briefly, I changed out of my stylish European shoes and into more practical American touring sneakers, and we hopped on the "Happy Tram" tourist train for a ride to the Acropolis. The Happy Tram ended up being the Crappy Tram as it drove back through all the sights we had already seen on the tram with Jennifer, but this time without any commentary. Sights included Hadrian's Arch and the Agora Complex.
*
By the time we finally got to the Acropolis at around three, I was ravenous. We stopped into restaurant decorated sometime in the swinging 70s for a grossly overpriced (~40 USD) lunch of salad, grilled cheese, and hot chocolate. We actually had to pay extra for the butter that we asked for with our free bread. I couldn't believe my eyes as we were finishing lunch - it had started to rain. We fought the one-way flow of traffic coming down from the Acropolis, thinking that we would brave the rain and just go do it. Once we got there and realized just how cold and wet it really was, how unprepared we were, and that it would cost us 12 Euro each to get in a be miserable. Thus, we taxied back to the hotel for naps and warm showers and promised ourselves that we would definitely get up early tomorrow morning to go to the Acropolis.
*
The evening activities consisted of wandering the streets looking for souveniers, internet to update our respective blogs, and dinner at Nuriga's fine Greek restaurant that included live entertainment of musicians, folk dancers, singers, and a bellydancer. I will keep my critical comments regarding the dancer to myself, though in the end I have to admit that I was ultimately entertained by her performance. It may have had more to do wiht the hysterical middle-aged man that she pulled up on stage to dance with her, but when it was all said and done it really doesn't matter why you enjoy a show...just that you did. The food was unfortunate - for us vegetarians the provided bread (butter not included), greasy boiled potatoes, stuffed grape leaves, spanikopita, and a Greek salad with some funny tasting feta cheese. Ian made it through the evening fairly well, although he and Amanda had just stepped out at about the same time that I hopped up on stage to try my hand at fold doancing. We were home by 11:30 and I was happy to have seen just a little dancing while in Greece.



Monday, November 12, 2007

DRAFT PHOTOS ONLY - Sightseeing (and Errands) with Ian in Athens (11.12.07)

At the Post Office in Athens - sending Egypt costumes home We should have weighed Ian!
Amanda & Ian
Hadrian's Arch
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Sylvana - the designated Ian-carrier
Temple of Olympian Zeus
"Guarding of the Change"
Acropolis at Sunset
Sylvana, Ian, & Amanda
Taken by Iranian tourist (with whom I spoke Farsi!)

Acropolis at Sunset
Nursing at Acrpolis Colors Ceremony at Acropolis
Acropolis at Night

Our Dessert Cafe - CREPES!
Ian as a HAPPY BOY!

DRAFT PHOTOS ONLY - Kickin' around with Jennifer (11.11.07)

Photo session with Ian at Amazon Hotel
Shrek/Ian
Can't get away from the carpets
Street Backgammon
Greek Agora & Library Complex
On tram
Cafe Culture
Acropolis
Jennifer & Ian
Sylvana getting her dog fix
Checking email at Athens International Airport
Finding our Feet!

IN PROGRESS - Arrival in Greece (11.10.07)

Arrival into Athens Airport
The 'Winston' Smoking Section at airport
Random church in shopping area
Ysatis boutique
Greek Flag on Mitropoulos Street
Trying on my new dance accessories from Dubai
At dinner
Ian & Aunt Sylly
Getting Baklava
Interesting bar on street

I arrived at the Athens airport with over 80 lbs of luggage in tow and very easily found a taxi to take me downtown to the hotel. My driver informed me that he had 32 years of experience as a cab driver and kept pointing out interesting landmarks such as the 2004 Olympic stadium and the American Embasy. The only problem was that after the early start to the day and enjoying 1.5 movies on the plane, I kept dozing off mid-sentence.

*

During this next week I will be traveling with my former partner of 12 years, Amanda, and her 4-month old son, Ian. In France on Wednesday we meet up with Rick, a very special long-time friend who has a second home in Marseille. Though for many people with a more "traditional" family structure the vacation arrangements may seem a little kooky, but I really am looking forward to it. The friendship seems to have been reestablished, the boundaries are set, and who doesn't want to hang out in a small hotel room with another adult and a 4-month old baby ;-).

*

With a few hours to kill in Athens before heading back to the airport to meet up with Amanda and Ian coming from the States, I bundled up against the blustery wind and started wandering the streets around Syntagma Square. I was completely amused to find that, in addition to carrying the standard issue Athens t-shirts , post-cards, and Acropolis snow globes, the tourist shops lining the streets also carry the same stuff I saw (and bought) in Marrakesh, Cairo, and Bur Dubai. These items include the blue & white Turkish "evil eye" good luck charm, pashmina shawls from Nepal, Oriental carpets, and Indian quilted wallhangings and bedspreads. Apparently the Greeks also haven't gotten the memo explaining that wearing dead animals is now "out", since about every 10th store in this area is a furrier.

*

The streets in this neighborhood are narrow and sandwiched between jewelry & shoe stores and Greek Orthodox churches, archeological sites of interest may pop up. I imagine this city of 5 million people has grown up around and swallowed many of the historical site, but I hope to know more about that tomorrow. Once again I had no luck trying to find internet, but I did catch a glimpse of myself walking by the show windows and I was just embarrassed for myself. 6 weeks of travelling as a backpacker in the warm middle east meant I had dressed in a white t-shirt, Costco athletic jacket, high-waisted zip-off pants circa 1985, and running shoes. That might cut it elsewhere with other budget travelers, but I decided it was high time for me to become a professional again. I joined the throng of other Saturday afternoon shoppers and wandered into one of the small boutiques off Mitropoluous Street and wandered out an hour later somewhat poorer for the two shirts and 1 pair of pants that I purchased, but hopefully much more stylish. The additional downside was that I am no longer a "medium" in any country. I could only wear "large" Indian fashions in Dubai, and here in Greece I am now a 3 on a scale of 0-4.

*

Truthfully, though I have this desire to "look European", I am not all that thrilled about European fashion. It is all about the "skinny jean". The waistband sits just inches above one's ass and is very very ticht. For most of us (and me in particular right now), this leads to the muffin-top phenomenon. My theory is that if it doesn't look good on a 17-year-old, it is not going to look good on an ever-expanding 34-year-old.