Tanoura (Skirt Dancing) (10.27.07)

Segat Player at Ghouria Complex

Sufi Dancing at Ghouria Complex

More Tanoura dance

On Saturday night, Mohamed Shahin picked me up to go to the Al Ghouria complex for a free "performance" of Tanoura, or skirt, dancing. I have not known to much of the history of Tanoura, since most of the time when I have seen it, it has been in the context of a dance performance. However, the members of this group are actually Sufi, and while there is a stage and lighting and all of the elements of a good performance, it was also very clear that it was religious in origin.

*
The music was the first thing to start - 2 Rebabas, a Salamiyyah, and a Mijwiz. They played a 5 minute drone as a line of percussionists came on stage. Two tablas, 8 tars, and a segat player. The music was incredible. Absolutely amazing, not just because of the music, but also because as the evening progressed the percussionists began to dance and a singer and additional musicians were added up in the balconies. The music was all religious in nature, with the melody musicians wearing red sashes with "La Allah illa Allah" written on them. (There is no other god but Allah." After a 10-15 minute performance wear each musical instrument was featured in a call and response, the singer and the master dancer appeared. The man who danced probably spun in a CW circle for almost 20 minutes, and has he did I watched his expression changed from calm meditation to ecstatic smiling. He responded to the words of the singer with outstretched arms and head movements and it was very apparent that this was absolutely a form of worship. Mohamed told me that you see these dancers (and others of the Sufi sect) out on the streets when Muslims celebrate the prophet Mohamed's birthday.

*

What was very interesting was watching the percussionist/dancers as they were transformed in front of our eyes. Starting somewhat reserved and stiff at the beginning, by the end of their ritualized dancing they had rapturous smiles on their faces and were drenched in sweat as they hopped, spun, twisted, and lunged. I watched one guy lose control and start spinning for about 5 minutes with the guy in the middle as the rest of the group continued to dance around him. Equally amazing was the fact that when the dancers stop spinning, they stop on a dime with no apparent dizziness or disorientation.

*

A group of Saidi musicians including 4 whining Mizmars and a double-sided drum were the next up, and were followed by the entire musical company and 3 dervishes finishing the show in a stunning 15-minute spinning frenzy. I am considering going back there on Wednesday night and arriving even earlier so that I can see it again, but Karim suggested something else for Wednesday night so I will just have to see.

*

Afterwards I was able to ask Mohamed a lot of questions about life in Egypt and about his dancing and all in all it was a very powerful evening.